Wednesday, April 8, 2009

House Drywall Application - Home Building Tips

Let's start with the basic eight-foot sheet of drywall. Most drywall contractors apply drywall horizontally however I have seen some contractors working with metal stud framing install 10 foot sheets of drywall vertically.

The reasons for installing the 10 foot sheets of drywall up and down or vertically in this situation are quite simple. There is no structural strength required in these walls because they are simply partitions dividing rooms and usually the drywall only needs to be finished up to 9 feet. This is the only time I have seen drywall ran vertically.

In a wood framed house the drywall actually adds a little sheer value to the home itself.

The manufacturer suggests installing eight-foot sheets of drywall horizontally. The horizontal application of drywall means installing the 4 foot side of the drywall up and down and the eight-foot side of the drywall side to side.

What is the reason for installing the 4 x 8 sheets horizontally?

When it comes to finishing the drywall the 4 foot seams that run up and down or vertical will not be as noticeable as a seam running up and down the entire wall. If you haven't read one of my last articles on eye level window setting then let me give you a brief eye level education.

A person 5'8" in height will be more apt to notice things between 4'6" off the ground and 6'6" off the ground. If we ran the drywall vertical there is a good chance the eyes would be able to pick up any finishing flaws in the drywall. Running the drywall horizontally will just put us a little out of range from the lower eye level of 4 foot six with our finish.

Another reason for installing the drywall horizontally is there is a good chance your eyes would be able to pick up four foot lines in the wall going from floor to ceiling quite easily. On older homes you will see lines in the ceilings about every 24 inches. This is because the plaster or drywall ceilings is starting to sag in between the ceiling joist.

These lines are difficult to do anything about once the drywall is finished. The only alternative you would have is to remove the ceiling and re-drywall and finish it.

Drywall ran vertically will tend to crack easier than staggered drywall ran horizontally. The four foot section of drywall is stronger than the 8 foot section. If you stagger your drywall breaks every four feet this will increase the strength of your wall as well.

Try not to break the drywall at any door openings. The door openings seem to crack easily from the corners working their way towards the ceiling. Let the drywall run over the doorway and then cut the doorway out leaving the rough door opening during wallboard installation.

If you have ever seen a house that was drywalled by a professional crew the waste is unbelievable. The reason for this is simply that the drywall contractor does not want to come back and patch cracks in the walls three or four years after he is done. It can be quite labor intensive installing scrap pieces of drywall versus using larger sheets to cover the same area.

Don't forget and always remember that. Horizontal installation of drywall is recommended by the manufacturer.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

45 Degree Door Header

Roof Shingles Three Time Saving Tips

If you're looking for "how to roof shingles" information, you've come to the right place. It's a tough job, but there's no sense making it take longer than necessary. Here are three tips to speed things up.

How to Roof Shingles - Tip #1 Stand Up!

Some roofers shingle sitting down or kneeling, but they have to keep jumping up to change position, get more shingles, get more nails and dispose of wrappers. You can save a lot of time and energy by just standing while you shingle. It takes a couple weeks for your back muscles to adjust, but after that it is definitely easier and faster.

At the end of the day when you're beat, you can always sit down and knock out a few more bundles.

How to Roof Shingles - Tip #2 Don't Set Your Nail Gun Down!

Some speedy roofers set their nail gun down between every shingle, but frankly, I don't know how they do it. I like to hang onto the gun between shingles. Using the gauge on the bottom of the nailer, you can position the shingle and nail it with no delay when you're ready. You will save a little time on every shingle you install.

How to Roof Shingles - Tip #3 Grab Them Right!

Make it a point to grab the shingle in the exact spot you will be holding it for nailing. For me, since I'm right-handed, that would be the bottom left corner.

By grabbing it in the right spot, you can butt it right up against the adjacent shingle, while checking the bottom edge for alignment, all without any wasted motion.

These may seem like little things, but they can add up to a lot of time saved on your roofing project.

Of course there's a lot more you need to know about "how to roof shingles". To make the job easier help you and avoid big mistakes, go to: http://www.roofingsecrets.com

John C Bishop is the author of "Roofing Secrets: How to Avoid Leaks and Save Thousands of Dollars!"

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Hardwood Lumber Is An Important Part Of Your Woodworking Project

A hardwood lumber is a must for any woodworking shop. Whenever you are making a solid wood product, you want a good quality wood. Such wood is not only looks good, but strong and durable as well. The project you are creating and the usage determines the type of material to be used.

Types of Hardwood Lumber

The rich and dark tones of Walnut are loved. A strong wood this tight grain has a distinct beauty of its own. The color of the wood differs depending on the country in which it has been grown in. This material is used to make different types of furniture, grandfather clocks and cabinets. Musical instruments have also been made from it. High quality veneers as made from Walnut too.

A very popular hardwood used in hardwood flooring, cabinet and furniture making of different types is Oak. It has a lovely, soft tone that looks good in a wide variety of situations and matches most home dcors. Mostly found in kitchen cabinets in country style homes, the problem with oak is its price. Oak is one of the most expensive types of wood.

In the Eastern United States the yellow poplar is one of the tallest trees. Though much cheaper than oak or walnut, it is still a good quality wood. Poplar is used in a variety of products including furniture, toys, musical instruments and sporting goods. It is one of the easiest of all types of woods, to work with in a home or commercial set up.

Beech is a variety grown on both the coasts of the United States. This type of wood can be used for a variety of projects like flooring, doors, furniture, boxes, baskets, etc. The plus point of Beech is that it is very easy to paint or stain. This type of wood accepts the stain well.

Hardwood plywood gives impression of hard wood without being pricey. For added strength the hardwood veneer is glued to particle board. Such wood is often used in bookcases. One of the best quality hardwood plywood types happens to be Oak plywood. Easy to stain, doesnt warp easily and is long lasting. The Windsor plywood is a high quality wood.

Where to Buy Lumber

Lumber can be found in many home improvement or lumber stores, such as 84 Lumber, Lumber Liquidators, Carter Lumber and Lowes Lumber. Types, such as walnut, may not be available in some home improvement stores though. Since this is mostly a special order item, some places may give you the facility of ordering it for you. Extra time is needed for ordering and delivery.

The magazine writer Eric Slarkowski is very interested in subjects associated with mdf typical sizes and mdf board. His abstracts on mdf lumber are published on http://www.insidewoodworking.com/lumber/794mdf-lumber-size.html

Finding Something You Don

How to Seal a Concrete Driveway - House Help

Sealing a concrete driveway is a simple, inexpensive and fast way to maintain the value of a home. Your concrete driveway is one of the first things people see when they drive up to your home. That is why it is a good idea to keep the concrete driveway looking as good as the day it was installed. Sealing the concrete driveway with a penetrating siloxane concrete sealer will give years of protection to the driveway. Another name for them is siloxane water repellent.

How Concrete Driveways Deteriorate

Water that penetrates and expands from freezing does most of the damage to concrete driveways. That is because the water expands 9% in volume when it freezes. This expansion can physically break the concrete bonds and cause it to flake, pit, spall and crack. Sealing the concrete reduces the amount of water absorption.

De-icing salts do damage to the concrete also. The salts attack the surface layer of concrete and the steel reinforcement inside the concrete. When de-icing salts are applied, the melted water can enter the concrete and then refreeze as the temperature drops.

Sealing the concrete with a penetrating siloxane sealer, also called a siloxane water repellent will reduce water and salt uptake and the number of freeze-thaw cycles the concrete goes through.

Penetrating Concrete Sealers

Concrete driveways are high traffic areas, with cars entering and leaving and kids using them for basketball courts. That is why your concrete driveway needs to have a penetrating sealer as opposed to a surface sealer.

A surface sealer is just that, it is applied to the surface and does not penetrate. The surface sealer will wear away rapidly from use. Every time a car pulls in or someone bounces a ball on it, a little bit of the sealer is removed. Some surface sealers can make the driveway slick and dangerous when it rains because the rough texture is covered up.

On the other hand, a siloxane sealer penetrates below the concrete surface. Siloxane sealers form a hydrophobic barrier against water and de-icing salt attack. They are commonly called siloxane water repellents. Because they are below the surface, they are protected from wear on the surface of the concrete. The natural texture of the concrete is maintained so traction and safety are not a concern. Finally, because the concrete sealer is below the surface, there is no shininess or gloss to the concrete.

Step 1. Let the Concrete Cure

Freshly poured concrete cannot be sealed. It must cure for 21-30 days prior to application of a penetrating sealer.

Step 2. Clean the Driveway

Broom off any loose debris such as dirt, mud and leaves off of the driveway. If there are any oil or grease stains, these should be removed to the best of your ability with a pressure washer.

Step 3. Allow the Concrete to Dry

Water-based siloxane sealers need to have the concrete dry for 24 hours prior to application. No rain should fall within this 24 hour time period. This will reduce the dilution of the siloxane sealer and ensure that the maximum amount gets into the concrete substrate itself.

Step 4. Spray, Roll or Brush on the Sealer

It doesn't really matter which method of application is used, but of course a roller is faster than a brush and a pump up garden sprayer is faster than a roller. No other special equipment is needed. You do not need to worry about getting it onto plants or grass. If any gets onto metal or windows, wash it off immediately with soapy water and a sponge.

Apply only enough concrete sealer that a slight whitish color is seen. Any ponding of material should be spread evenly prior to drying.

Step 5. Keep Rain and Traffic off of it for 24 hours

The sealer will dry in 1-4 hours but it is a good idea to keep cars and traffic off of the driveway for 24 hours. Application should occur when rain is not in the forecast for 24 hours after application to give the sealer plenty of time to penetrate and seal.

Once cured the siloxane sealer becomes a bonded component of the concrete driveway. A properly sealed concrete driveway will give years of protection from damage. The return on investment will be worth the time and expense of application.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz who's with Applied Technologies. Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States.

For more information about concrete siloxane water repellents, visit Applied Technologies.

You Have To Start Somewhere

Monday, April 6, 2009

Stair Building Codes - Home Building

The stair building code was created for building safety. Before the building code and local city enforcement (Building Inspectors), anyone could build a house. This meant Uncle Earl who had just watched a couple of his friends build a house down the street construct some sort of a dwelling. The next step for Earl would be to help these guys for a day and now he is a professional home builder. You get the point.

Stair Building Codes create the safety needed for one of the most hazardous areas of your home. You might know someone who has fallen down a stairway?

I lived in a house I built for 15 years and I redesigned the stairs from a winder design to a T shaped set of stairs. Both sets of stairs were built using the local stair building code for my city.

Wow I could not believe how many times my family members fell down the stairs. I even fell down once. I was amazed. When I switched from the winder to the T shaped stairway there were less accidents. My point is that even using the stair building codes this is a dangerous part of your house.

Having a professional stair builder install your stairs is great advice. Take it. For example this happened to me on quite a few jobs. I get a set of plans from a architect who has been designing houses for over 40 years. I looked at the stairway to find out that he has designed a stairway that is too small for the length of this part of the home. If I build the stairs using the plans that by the way were approved from the local building department, I could have a problem.

You are probably asking yourself how does this happen. Aren't these people experienced professionals. Of course they are. They probably have the U.B.C. (Uniform Building Code) in their office somewhere. Everyone makes mistakes here and there but this is one area of the home where safety is a big concern.

Just look at it like this. The stair building code was designed to improve the safety and reduce the number of accidents while using the stairs. Over the years I have seen stairs poorly designed and constructed. These stairs create problems for the owners of the buildings not just the people that use them. Did I mention lawsuits. This is one area where a lawyer will have a field day.

As a building professional I advise you to use the stair building code first for safety and second to avoid lawsuits. Get an idea from some of the pictures I have taken over the years on problems with stair building.

Use common sense while building or remodeling your home. It goes a long way.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry. Stair Building Articles

Garage Wall Framing Into House

Saturday, April 4, 2009

How to Create the Perfect Patio Experience

By taking time to plan and design your patio, you can create an area where all the different features combine to produce a unique space that possesses character, comfort and charm. In effect, transforming a popular garden feature into an outside room.

To create the perfect patio for your garden, consider the size and position of the patio area carefully. Most people prefer the patio to be close to the house but you may wish to choose a location in a sunnier part of the garden or a position offering a better view.

By placing the patio near to trees and shrubbery, you create a naturally sheltered area similar to an arbour. But this type of location can bring problems. Firstly excavating the footings for the patio may cause damage to the roots of the trees and shrubs that were the chief attraction of that particular location. Close proximity to trees and shrubs will almost definitely result in the unsightly problem of leaf mould forming on the patio creating a slippery and hazardous surface.

For a patio that complements the house and garden, proportions are all-important. When deciding on the size of the patio, you must also think practically about how it will be used. If you want to put a table and chairs on it, you will probably need at least 3m x 3m but to accommodate sunloungers and possibly barbeques a larger space may be required. So it's worthwhile deciding on the type of patio furniture you will be using at this early stage.

Shape is another important factor in your patio planning. Don't be constrained by the traditional rectangular template - a curved patio is often more space efficient and can blend more harmoniously with the rest of the garden. Experiment with shapes and geometric patterns to highlight garden features or mirror flowerbeds. Mark out the patio area with a hosepipe or string line to help you visualise the space.

Once you have decided on the shape and size of your patio there is another important feature of the design to consider that many people overlook - colour. The variety of stone available to the patio builder is matched, if not surpassed, by the rich diversity of colours in which stone paving materials now come. A quick glance at any paving stone supplier's catalogue or website will vividly illustrate this. We will look at the colours available later, but at this stage it is a good idea to consider whether you want the colour of the patio to complement or contrast with the colour of the walls of your house.

Then there are the questions of patterned or plain and mix or match? Are you going to use stone of the same colour or do want to create a pattern on the patio surface?

Matching different materials is yet another option worth considering. A patio constructed of two different types of stone can be very effective, as can the inclusion of an area of decorative gravel in the design. But if the mix and match approach appeals to you take care, for not all materials will work well together.

As with so much connected with design, personal taste plays a significant and overriding role. Nevertheless, it is a generally accepted rule that natural stone does not work well with reconstructed materials.

The patio's perimeter also offers the opportunity for other design elements that can enhance its overall appearance. Firstly, you may want to build a low ornamental wall around the perimeter of your patio. Once again it is at the design stage where you should be looking into the height of the wall, the type and colour of the brick you are going to use and whether the top of the wall will be finished with coping or incorporate areas for planting.

Another option worth considering is having contrasting edging at the patio's perimeter, which can be in terms of both colour and material. A patio constructed of slabs can be given an elegant block edging, providing a simple but effective counterpoint to the main patio area.

Whatever design you are looking for, it is advisable to produce scale drawings to visualise the finished patio. Scale drawings can also assist in calculating the quantity of materials needed.

Patio slabs

Stone slabs or flags come in many shapes, sizes and colours. The main types of stone are natural stone and reconstructed stone. Natural stone is what its name implies and is the more expensive of the two; but natural stone slabs can vary in size and thickness and consequently will require a higher degree of expertise to lay.

Reconstructed stone slabs - sometimes described as reconstituted or artificial stone - are concrete units where a specific concrete mix has been designed to resemble natural stone. A wide range of natural stones can be imitated including Bath stone, Portland stone, Stainton stone and red terracotta.

A word of caution on reconstructed stone slabs. Although they are the less expensive option, the quality can vary greatly and the cheapest stone slab often bears little resemblance to the natural stone it is trying to imitate. So it's advisable to look around to find the best supplier.

Traditionally the most popular stone for building patios has been sandstone, as it comes in a wide range of attractive colours and textures. But there are other interesting and decorative alternatives.

Travertine is a hardwearing stone common to southern Europe. The largest building in the world constructed predominently of travertine is the Colosseum in Rome. A noticable feature of travertine stone is its naturally pitted surface that is excellent for simple, rustic designs. But it's the colours of travertine stone that make it so attractive to patio builders. In addition to grey, beige and white there are rich browns, reds and golds that are ideal for creating a patio with a Mediterrannean appearance.

Another stone favoured by professional patio builders is granite. The reputation granite has for toughness and durability often overshadows its natural beauty. Natural granite slabs are usually dark and silver grey, or pink. But its beauty is heightened in the sun as it sparkles and glints providing a glamorous sophistication.

When looking at the variety of stone available you will soon discover that patio slabs can come with different finishes offering another dimension to patio design. These finishes are produced by specific operations: acid-etched, smooth or coarse ground, grit or sand-blasted, rubbed or polished, giving the stone a different appearance and character.

A riven surface refers to stone that has the appearance of having split away from the main rock mass resulting in a rough, textured appearance. Tumbled stone has a distressed look marked by rounded edges and a well-worn quality. Polished stone has a smooth surface imparting a refined elegance, while in stark contrast slabs that have been shot-blast have a coarse, roughened surface.

Block paving and setts?

Although the patio slab or flag is the most popular stone material for building patios other materials are available, namely block paving and setts.

Block paving comprises of rectangular shaped blocks similar to bricks. The most common size for block pavers is 200mm x 100mm with a depth of around between 50mm. They can either be made of concrete or clay and come in a wide selection of colours. Clay paving blocks are more expensive than the concrete variety but both can be tumbled or polished

Paving blocks are usually laid in one of three patterns: herringbone, stretcher bond and basketweave.

Whatever stone material you decide to use, accurate plans will help you estimate the quantity of materials needed and get quotes. Remember to check that there are no underground pipes and cables in the area. If the patio is to butt onto an exterior house wall, it must be below the damp proof course.

John Burry is the editor of http://www.lets-do-diy.com He has extensive experience writing for a broad spectrum of UK publications coveringindustries as diverse as health, automotive, beauty, new media and construction. Before taking up his current position he worked in PRwhere he was account manager for a number of blue chip clients. John has gained a reputation for detailedresearch and presenting information clearly and concisely.

Roof Top Copula

Material For the Decors

Home furnishing is one of the many investments homeowners give much importance to. From the living room, to the dining room, to the master bedroom; everything has to be just right. But beyond closed walls, lawns, gardens, and backyards also have their share of make-overs. And the patio isn't any different.

Design isn't the only essential information you should be getting yourself acquainted with when choosing your patio furniture. Material is also vital, as you want to find furniture, which will suit both your needs and wants. Whatever your patio dcor is made out of will greatly affect the overall feel of your area, the amount of time and energy you will use for maintenance, the optimum performance of your furniture, and just how much you'd actually be spending for it.

The material for patio outdoor furniture varies. From wood, plastic, aluminum to iron.

Wood is one of the most popular materials used for patio dcor with Cedar topping the list. Others are Mahogany, Pine, and Teak; all of which can provide you with all weather outdoor furniture so long as you apply water sealant. Rattan and Bamboo on the other hand are not as weather resistant.

The Western Red Cedar is the best wood for outdoor furniture. They are resistant to decay and insect infestation. . Adirondack and Muskoka chairs are always made from Cedar.

Pine is less expensive too. They are softer compared to other types of wood. Because of this, they are prone to cracking.

Want something more sturdy and heavier? Choose Mahogany. It will cost you more but it will be worth it.

Beautiful and elegant, they are Canes, bamboo, rattan, and willow. Serenity and ambiance will be felt in your surroundings. The weather will be cruel towards them though. Them being lightweight is another con.

Wood requires minimal maintenance compared to others. You just need to put oil on them from time to time. This will prevent them from drying up. Cushions can be added but be sure to remove them as the harsh weather will not be too soft on them.

Plastic does not always look cheap. Resins for example are beautifully woven and require less maintenance. They are heavy so they won't be easily blown away. This is budget friendly outdoor furniture.

Cast aluminum is like resin. It is cheap and weather resistant. Stainless and rust free, they are easy to maintain. They may need cushions so they will feel a lot more comfortable. They are always in the same color.

Of course there's the classic Scrolled Wrought Iron dcors which have dominantly populated most city park benches and the like. Its long-been-tested durability is truly something this piece of work can boast about. The beauty of wrought irons is that it mixes elegance with low maintenance even if you have to pay a little extra for these benefits. Furniture created from this material can be left displayed under the freezing snow, boiling sun, chilly rains, or cool winds and still come out as fresh as ever. The only problem with wrought iron furniture is that it will have the tendency to rust if its coat of paint was removed although this can easily be remedied by regular repainting.

In choosing your eventual patio dcor, the look should be the last thing on your mind even if it's the first thing people will see. All weather outdoor furniture will always be more beneficial than those which you will need to move indoors with every sign of potential rainfall. Heavyweight material should also be preferred as winds and gusts are unpredictable. Never compromise long-term satisfaction with short-term financial benefits. Do not forget, your patio is also a part of the home you've invested in.

Kenny Leichester is a foremost expert in the interior design industry specializing in the outdoor or patio settings using outdoor patio furniture, patio umbrellas, outdoor cushions, patio heaters, patio lighting and so on to create exquisitely beautiful layout. His work on patio heaters and so on are widely distributed and is a regular contributor to PatioShoppers.com.

Stair Handrail Inspection