Thursday, June 26, 2008

Tin Ceiling Tile - Is a Tin Ceiling Right for You

Have you noticed that your old ceiling is looking drab and stained? Have you considered replacing but dont have the money to hire someone to do it for you? Replacing your old ceiling is a job youA9D can do yourself when you use tin ceiling tile to replace the old ceiling you have now.

You can choose unfinished tin panels that are made with bright tin plated steel stamped panels, not the economy tin or lightweight grayish aluminum you may see advertised elsewhere. Tin ceiling tile comes in many patterns and colors as well varied types as well. You can choose from styles such as Nailups, Dropins, and Snaplock as well as all moldings. Many people decide to finish their tin ceiling tile themselves by paining or applying a clear polyurethane coating to them. You may decide this option works for you.

With a Snaplock tin ceiling tile, you can anchor it directly into a drywall ceiling with six drywall screws. You can apply this method to plaster ceilings too, but you will want to use metal plaster screws instead of drywall screws.

Tin ceiling tiles can be used in a kitchen for a backsplash. This is becoming quite popular in home dcor. The 6 pattern is most often used for a backsplash, but a 12 pattern may be used as well. The Nailup panel is the appropriate product to use, the Snaplock is not intended for this purpose.

If you have a low ceiling in one of the rooms, you intend to install tin ceiling tile, it is best to use light colors. This can help reduce the appearance of a low ceiling. If you are thinking of replacing your bathroom ceiling with tin ceiling tile, you can be as creative as you would like. You can make bold statements with color in your bathroom because they are a private room.

Tin ceiling tile comes in many colors, patterns, and sizes. They can add a fresh element to an old stale room with ease and little cost. You will be pleased with the effect a tin ceiling tile has on the entire room.

For more information about Tin Ceiling Tile?, feel free to visit us at: http://www.about-tin.info/Articles/Tin_Ceiling.php

2 X 12 Doug Fir Exterior Stair

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Laminate Flooring Installation - 10 Rules For Installing Laminates In Bathrooms

Laminate flooring installations have evolved to such an extent that even bathrooms and kitchens are no longer too much of a challenge for this interior design idea. Provided that you follow installation instructions closely, a do it yourself enthusiast can confidently create a brand new bathroom look in the space of a few hours. What should you keep in mind when doing a laminate flooring installation in a bathroom or kitchen?

Many suppliers are reluctant to recommend a laminate flooring installation in a bathroom, because of the moisture risk involved. However, most quality laminate flooring products are now highly resistant to water and warranted for use during bathroom and kitchen remodeling projects. The only caveat is that you don't deviate from the detailed installation instructions. This is one area where you may want to consider calling in professional help.

1. Shower Floor No-No: Never attempt a laminate flooring installation in an area with a floor drain, such as a shower floor. This type of flooring also isn't recommended for use in a steam room, due to the extremely high humidity level.

2. Water Woes: The main culprit that leads to floor damage such as buckling or blistering, is standing water. If there is any spillage or overflow, it is vital that you dry the floor immediately. Cleaning a laminate floor should never involve more than a damp mop. A wet wash is a straight road to trouble.

3. Ultimate Underlay: In a bathroom or kitchen you need to cut the underlayment even with the top of the flooring after installation, so that it can be sealed with the floor.

4. Joint Joinery: The tighter the joints lock during a laminate flooring installation, the better their ability to resist moisture. Don't manipulate the joints too much. Every time they are loosened and re-locked, they will have a looser fit. This has to be avoided at all costs during bathroom and kitchen installations.

5. Glued To The Task: You may not need to do this in the rest of the house, but manufacturers recommend that in bathrooms and kitchens you glue the joints to seal them properly. Apply the glue to the top of the tongue only. As you click the joints together, a thin bead of glue will show on the surface. This must be wiped off with a damp cloth, before the glue dries. This procedure is only necessary during a bathroom or kitchen laminate flooring installation.

6. Setting The Seal: Around the perimeter of the room you will use 100% mildew-resistant silicone caulk or a product such as Pergo sealant according to the manufacturer's directions. One tip that is often given is to apply masking tape parallel to and just off the edge of the laminate plank. You can then fill the expansion space, remove any overflow carefully with a putty knife and gently remove the tape. Every joint and expansion space must be protected in this way to prevent moisture and humidity from seeping into the core of the planks used during the laminate flooring installation.

7. Trimming The Tub: A variety of decorative color-coordinated molding options are available for use around tubs and basins. The expansion space first needs to be filled with caulk. The molding trim can then be placed in the caulk while it is still wet. The joint between the tub or basin also needs to be treated with caulk.

8. Mind The Moldings: Always use a T-molding between the bathroom and the adjoining area. This will also be sealed with caulk.

9. Do A Dry Run: A bathroom laminate flooring installation is slightly different due to the use of caulk and glue. Manufacturers therefore recommend that you leave the room to dry for up to 24 hours before using it.

10. Cabinets Come First: Install any bathroom of kitchen cabinets before doing the laminate flooring installation.

Remember that any laminate flooring that is damp or wet becomes extremely slippery. Be extra careful in a bathroom. All in all, if done with care and the requisite sealants, a bathroom laminate flooring installation can be most successful and durable.

Awnings-and-Blinds.com - Don't start your laminate flooring installation before reading the laminate hardwood flooring installation secrets article. The author, Rika Susan also offers more flooring information in the Harmonics Glueless Laminate Flooring article at Awnings-and-Blinds.com. Copyright of this article: 2007 Rika Susan. This article may be reprinted if the resource box and hyperlinks are left intact.

Simple Wood And Stone Entryway

How to Pick the RIGHT Remodeling Estimate - Beware of the "Low-Ball" Bidder!

The process of selecting a contractor to do your home remodeling project can be daunting. First comes locating the contractor, then the interview, contacting their references, verifying insurances and licenses. Once this is settled it is time to move forward and start receiving estimates or "bids". Construction bids are unique animals. When you are considering buying a new car you can see what the finished product looks like. You can also take it for a ride to see if it feels right to you. With a construction project you have no idea what the final result will be. You can only make a decision based on what you see on paper and getting to know the contractor.

The Bid or the Contractor- What is More Important?

One question homeowners will always ask themselves when reviewing bids is - "Which one should I go with?" Maybe the correct question should be "Which contractor do I feel most comfortable about hiring?" When it is all said and done most homeowners will look back at their remodeling project and the first question they ask themselves is typically-did we hire the RIGHT contractor for what we wanted done? If the contractor did a great job and was a pleasure to work with a homeowner couldn't ask for more. Very seldom is the cost of the project even considered at this point.

But what if the project was a living nightmare - does having saved some money really matter to the homeowner at this point in time? Believe me, it is the last thing on their mind. All they wanted was to hire a good, hard-working, ethical contractor they could trust and pay a fair price for his/her expertise. But now they will only look back and remember hearing "My price can't be beat" or "I'm cheaper because I don't have the overhead" or "Hire me today and I'll give you a great deal." They feel like idiots because they were gullible and went with the cheapest estimate. Don't let cost be the deciding factor in who you hire.

"Low-Ball" Bids

When a contractor deliberately under bids the real price of the job hoping to be hired it is called a "low-ball" bid. These bids are generally much lower than any other bids you have received - usually 20-25% or more. Many are done intentionally by unscrupulous contractors while others are presented by contractors who are incompetent and they may have overlooked unavoidable costs. Either way, these are not the contractors you want working in your home. These contractors are hoping that the homeowner will only consider cost when settling on who they should hire.

Low-ball bids will often include poor quality materials, inferior craftsmanship, no insurance and/or licenses, poor project management, dragged out projects, and a failure to perform the required work safely. It is very typical as your project proceeds that the low-balling contractor will find reasons to get you to raise the price up to what the bid should have been originally and present you with change orders to accomplish this. Don't let this happen!

Let's look at an example of a possible "low-ball" bid:

You have received 3 estimates from contractors you are considering hiring. One estimate is for $11,000, another is $10,500 and the third is $7,800. Ask yourself why is there is more than a $3,000 difference between the high and low bids? Are all the contractors bidding on the same materials, labor and fixtures? Are they all licensed, insured, and have provided you with a written contract and guarantee? Are the allowances all similar? The low estimate should be a "red flag" - proceed with extreme caution.

Which Bid Should You Choose?

Your "gut-feeling" will come into play as you interview various contractors-listen to it! It carries more weight than you realize. Don't let cost be the deciding factor in who you hire.

1) If you receive a bid that is very low, don't even consider it. Stay away from contractors that offer you such a bid. Low-balling is, in my opinion, dishonest. Possibly the worst reason that a contractor might submit a low-ball bid is that they have no intention of doing the work. They may start your project but they won't be around for too long.

2) If you receive a bid that is way too high, eliminate it also. Some contractors will purposely bid high on a job they don't really want just to see if a homeowner is foolish enough to hire them anyway.

3) You should now be left with the "middle bids" and hopefully a contractor that you like.

Also consider this when deciding on what bid to accept:

60% of your decision on who to hire should be based on their workmanship skills, experience with projects like yours, and reference checks.

30% of your decision should be based on the contractor's ability/experience to keep the project moving forward, communication skills and cooperation.

1056A% of your decision should be based on the actual cost of the project.

Don't focus on the cost of your project when selecting a contractor. This only gives you tunnel-vision to what really needs to be addressed. Planning and lots of patience will head you in the right direction when a home project becomes part of your life. Do it right the first time and your project will be a success.

Paul Lawrence has owned and operated Home Project Partners, a free Maine-based contractor referral service, since 2002. He helps bring homeowners together with reliable, quality-conscious, pre-screened home contractors skilled in numerous trades. Paul makes presentations to realtors and other groups that have an interest in his service. He has also taught adult education classes showing homeowners how to find contractors on their own and to learn how to properly screen a contractor.

For more information contact Paul at info@HomeProjectPartners.com or visit online at http://www.HomeProjectPartners.com

Fallbrook Building Articles 4

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Thursday, June 12, 2008

How To Grout Your Tile And Stone

More and more homeowners are experiencing the satisfaction of repairing their tile and grout. The high cost of labor for even small jobs, has driven people to the stores looking for tile, materials, products and information.

This is GREAT! Why shouldnt homeowners learn to tile and grout?

Ive seen many new homes with completed ceramic tile jobs that have made the hair on the back of my neck stand up in fright especially tract homes where the bottom line for the developer is speed and corners to cut. So the more we learn about the different trades and the applications and techniques thereof, the better we will recognize a well performed and finished product to be proud of.

With this in mind, here are some grouting techniques to install in your memory banks for your next tile or stone job around the house.

Whether you have laid new tile or have scraped out the grout from an existing tiled area, make sure you clean the grout joints thoroughly and have taped off the areas you dont want the grout to spill over. Wiping grout off of sealed cabinets and semi or glossy paints, wont hurt those materials if you use care when wiping, but sometimes a little labor invested in taping adjacent areas will make the job easier in the long run.

When the grout joints are clean and ready to fill; mix the powdered grout with clean water and according to the package specifications. The grout should be lump-free with a consistency that will not easily pour out of the bucket.

Use the appropriate grout for your application. A non-sanded grout should be used for grout joints that are 1/8 and smaller in widths, while sanded grouts are to be used in joints which are larger. Typically youll find the smaller grout joints filled with the non-sanded grout in the bathroom and shower areas.

Use some latex gloves to protect your hands and with a grout float held at a 30-45 degree angle, spread the grout firmly into the grout joints. Dont worry about the mess on the tiles as this will clean up with your sponge at the proper time. Some areas that are hard to float, you can force the grout into the joint by hand. When all the joints are filled completely, scrape the excess grout off the tiles by holding the float at an almost 90 degree angle and pulling diagonally across the joints so you dont remove grout from the joints. Put all the remaining grout back in the bucket.

Allow the g1118rout to set for about 10 minutes then with a clean bucket of water and grout sponge, lightly wipe the tiles with a damp sponge (not a dripping sponge). Always wipe with a clean side of the sponge, flip the sponge over and wipe another section, then rinse the sponge clean. The initial sponging wipes most of the unwanted grout from the surface. The second sponging smoothes and neatens the joints and the third cleans the haze or residue from the tile. Always allow a few minutes between the three sponging cycles as this will allow the grout time to properly set. Remember, you dont want water from the sponge to puddle on the grout as this weakens and deforms the consistency.

Lastly, a final wipe will smooth any remaining high spots in the grout joints and clean the tiles of the remaining haze. After the grout dries, you can polish the tile with cheesecloth or a soft cotton cloth to remove any remaining residue. Nice Job!

Copyright 2006 Grout Getter Company

Michael Garman has 30 years experience in the construction trade and develops tools for professionals and homeowners involved in the ceramic tile industry. To view information and products on tile and grout removal or repair, visit his company website at: http://www.groutgetter.com

Removing Walls Is Easier

Save Money, Buy Energy Saving Light Bulbs

Everyone likes to save money when they can - and there are hundreds of ways you can save money. In this article, I want to talk to you about saving money by buying energy saving light bulbs. I'll give you a few tips on why these light bulbs are better than the traditional bulbs currently in use and why you should consider switching.

The technology for the traditional light bulb has not changed much in the past 200 years since Edison invented the incandescent bulb. The technology for compact fluorescent light bulbs, on the other hand, has changed dramatically over the past few years.

These new bulbs are designed to be environmentally friendly, use less energy, and last several times longer than traditional bulbs.

Energy saving or energy efficient light bulbs such as the compact fluorescent light bulb (CFL) use up to 75% less electricity than your standard light bulbs while at the same time producing about the same amount of light. Using less electricity to light up your home can save you hundreds on your electricity bills over the life of the new bulbs.

Another benefit of the energy efficient light bulb is that it will last about ten times longer, so you'll only have to change it once every few years compared to changing a traditional bulb every couple months. And if you have high ceilings and have to use a ladder just to change the bulb, this can save you several hours over the course of a year.

One main concern about using these new light bulbs is the cost. Technological improvements and increases in demand have brought down the costs of these efficient bulbs down to a no-brainer decision.

You get the convenience of not having to change a light bulb for a few years, the lower electricity bill - you could potentially save up to 10% each month on your bill, and you get to reduce pollution and help prevent climate change all at the same time just by using a CFL bulb.

The one environmental concern about these new bulbs is that they do contain a trace amount of mercury and need to be disposed of properly or recycled. You can usually return them to the store you bought them from or you can find a recycling location in your area by going to http://www.lamprecycle.org/

There are several benefits to buying energy saving light bulbs as I've outlined in this article. You do not have to be an environmentalist to want to switch to these bulbs. You can do it just to save money on your electricity bills.

Adam Hofstetler does buy energy saving light bulbs to save money and offers tips to help you choose the right bulbs for your home at his site http://www.buyenergysavinglightbulbs.com/

Preinspection